mongrol I assume that you have some other than included with KIT. I know some metal shaft threaded pots have this type of construction. I'll keep that in mind and new version will have a cutout in fastening plate.
Also I'll make U6 cutout bigger to avoid issues.
Donderdag window was scratched even when you removed the foil from both sides?
@adrian. Yeah, after pulling the board out these are definitely mounted the only way. The little squigle legs pops through and the thick bit rests on top. Ah well.
How have you guys attached the lcd display cover to the case? Thinking of getting a cheap lcd protective cover and using that to stick it to the underside maybe that would keep it in place or some dabs of superglue to the sides?
I used some two part epoxy I had laying around, always hard to use without getting messy but it works. superglue seems like a decent option too. it seems to fit pretty snug so i think just a minimal amount of glue would be fine.
What I've been experimenting with is pieces of tape on the inside, minimally overlapping two opposite edges, so it forms a shim when the window is inserted (also from the inside). Small pieces in a/the corner/s might also work. Glue and I usually ends badly
I used a contact glue which you have too apply on the window and on the case. Wait 10 minutes, pop in the window and the excess glue can easily be removed. Just rub it with your fingers and it forms a little ball. Very clean. Bison kit universal
I agree with using glue. But, something without solvent.Mine spread out a little, and discolored a little the around the window(not really a problem, because I planned to redo the printing, which does not please me too much). For me, there is one thing which is not terrible: I had to twist the pods of the power switch to avoid that it touch the dissipator of heat which finds itself just against. I glued the lightpipes just «in case of», but I don't think it's an obligation. Set apart these two details, the case is really very solid, and very well thought / made. Thanks a lot @Adrian. I hope to be one of those who will be owners of the shruthi-xt metal case
Please tell me i am crazy.. I purchase a kit and a case at the same time and the four pots base seems too big to go between the faceplate and the pcb.. Have i done something wrong?? they are elevetaed from the pcb by a "metal foot " at the rear. surely it would have been possible to bend it, but i wasn't aware... I'm i crazy???
Seems like there is another type of potentiometer with the latest kits. And they are not compatible at all with the new metal case. I would adwise not to solder these pots until there is a solution!
There is a solution: cut off the metal nose with a cutter !
These pots are known to most of the people who are doing DIY modular stuff and imho of way better quality than the plastic pots. Unfortunately this change of the pots is not adressed in the build manual yet.
@nightworxx: to me it doesn't look like the nose is the only problem. On the pictures posted by mongrol and flo it looks like there is not enough space for the pot "body" between the PCB and the metal case (even without the nose).
Anyway i really hope for à solution for me... I first think that it was due to the screen, so i make à mess with it by trying to lower it down, to finally discover that it was not the cause. I have no tool or compétence to desolder pot.. So apart from this messed screen, and that the kit dont fit in the case, the rest of the build went fine, and i discovered today what seemed to be à wonderful bar, too bad my joy far from full due to this....Can't wait to found à way to fix that.
The case designed for lower plastic pots. For new version I can add a bigger hole into fastening plate. But for now only fix is to use lower potentiometers what I mentioned before. @flo I can send you 4pcs and some desoldering stuff. @mongrol do you also need potentiometers or did you get some?
I indeed supplied another type of pot with the newer LXR kits. It uses the polyshine metal pots that have a much nicer feel. I measured their absolute height and it was below 10mm, so they should fit. Where are they touching the metal case? is it the 2nd metal sheet with the cutouts below the frontpanel? As I can perfectly fit them in the other cases I have here. Currently I only have the prototype from adrians cases here and that does not have this 2nd plate below the front.
Now there is 2mm fix plate welded below face plate. 10mm is distance from face plate bottom to PCB.
I can make opening for the pot's so there will be 10mm room for them, so you can include these potentiometers with KIT. But first batch cases had 8mm, because there was no opening in fix plate for pot's and plastic pots need to be used.
I sent 4 pot's to @flo and desoldering braid, so he can change the potentiometers.
@flo just cut the metal pot's, remove pins and clean old solder with desoldering braid.
Thanks to have send them to me, but each time i attempt to desolder it went really bad so i take care to make my build right the first time. Plus i too have the screen to change now, because first thinking it was due to it i make à mess trying to lower it, will post pic. Hope to found another solution, considering thèse problème are not my fault, and really knowing i dont want to take the desolder route. By the way, it seem à wonderful box.
Comments
For me, there is one thing which is not terrible: I had to twist the pods of the power switch to avoid that it touch the dissipator of heat which finds itself just against.
I glued the lightpipes just «in case of», but I don't think it's an obligation.
Set apart these two details, the case is really very solid, and very well thought / made. Thanks a lot @Adrian.
I hope to be one of those who will be owners of the shruthi-xt metal case
I would adwise not to solder these pots until there is a solution!
...
But for now only fix is to use lower potentiometers what I mentioned before.
@flo I can send you 4pcs and some desoldering stuff.
@mongrol do you also need potentiometers or did you get some?
I indeed supplied another type of pot with the newer LXR kits.
It uses the polyshine metal pots that have a much nicer feel.
I measured their absolute height and it was below 10mm, so they should fit.
Where are they touching the metal case?
is it the 2nd metal sheet with the cutouts below the frontpanel?
As I can perfectly fit them in the other cases I have here.
Currently I only have the prototype from adrians cases here and that does not have this 2nd plate below the front.
If somebody else needs replacement pots I will send them to you. Just drop me a mail.
By the way, it seem à wonderful box.
Then I could send @flo the prototype front so he does not have to desolder.
@flo or you could send me the PCB to change the pots. how grave is the mess around the display?