So good! Is there at all a possibility of a custom color for the screen print? I gave my lxr a blue and yellow color scheme and I'd love to have a metal case match. I'd pay the difference!
I have to ask adrian about it. there are currently 6 cases left. If nobody from the forum claims them until tonight I'm gonna announce them on twitter and the newsletter.
my case arrived as well. already finished transplanting the xlr from the old case into the new one.
looking really great and feeling sturdy so far but i fear the surface might scratch... I'm thinking about using car wax or something to coat the enclosure.
there were just two things that bugged me during the build:
1. just like julian said in the assembly guide:the lcd display cover is weird.. i mean it's in there but it kinda feels like it could fall out easily on the road. some kind of glue or adhesive is definitely needed.
2. if you are building this with a trigger io board: there is very little space between the bottom of the enclosure and the actual board. maybe put some electrical tape on the bottom of the enclosure and cut of the legs reeeeally tight or else you might risk some shorts. also julian: in your assembly it says something about "the bolts on the bottom of the case" on which to install the trigger io. I'm guessing this is just a leftover from the old erica synth metal case tutorial as there are no metal bolts on the bottom of the new case. you need to fasten the trigger io board to the back of the case with the nuts of the cv jacks.
well... this post turned out longer than I intended. just one thing left to say:
thanks adrian and julian for making this fantastic enclosure possible, it takes the lxr on a totally new level!
Mine went together well The light pipes took most time , some of the rubber rings are tricky to squeeze on but it's doable. Button 2 and 3 are quite tight so I think I need to slightly file the holes slightly I haven't hooked in the switch yet either
I plan to put small amount of glue on each light pipe and secure the lcd panel I may also put a little tape around the edge to protect the edges a little , maybe even do it g reel like the Roland stuff. And finally I may get an iPad screen cover and cut it to go over entire top , they're only £1 in discount shops.
Got my case in as well, makes it look like an off the shelf product now! But does anyone know of a good way to rub off the wrong markings, one that doesn't damage the finish of course!
Very nice and sturdy case! I did find a little problem with it however: the hole/space in the front panel above U6 is displaced, so I removed the ic-holder for U6 to make the front panel fit better. (Easy with a Hakko 808.)
@ Richie, If I am correct the markings on the backside are incorrect. The ones on the front are the other way around so I assume thse are the correct ones. I think a black marker or a little bit of black paint on the back will be sufficient.
@richie it's hard to remove it. But whatever you do, don't use acetone. Maybe the most easiest and good looking would be just a fine cut of electrical tape.
I checked it out and I think the pots are misaligned. The circles are perfectly centered and all the pics of other units I've seen are perfect. But I didn't build it myself, so I guess the are soldered off center
I have pot trouble too. They aren't just off centre when the PCB is inserted. They are too high so I can't screw the PCB down flush without some serious flex. They are soldered down to the board as low as they can go but the wrongness of it is so much it's like they are a different part from the pots Adrian used for the case design. I'll get some pics.
Because of this I can't screw the PCB write down meaning some buttons don't come through fully and the flex on the PCB needed to make the buttons usable is scary.
Bought full kit including the new metal case when they came out a few weeks ago. I'd love to see a photo of the misalignment that keeps being mentioned as mine looks damn near perfect. Even my LCD cover fits nice and snug in the case, no chance of it falling out like Julian mentioned :-/ although it arrived scratched to hell, but it's a protective cover so I'll deal.I've barely scratched the surface of what this thing can do and am already loving it, really looking forward to some more in-depth exploration over the next few weeks!
@mongrol: there is something wrong with your pots soldering. Normally they sit flush on the pcb. Sometimes they need a little force and a bit wiggling to get them through the pcb holes. Or did you sourced some other pots by yourself?
Comments
there are currently 6 cases left.
If nobody from the forum claims them until tonight I'm gonna announce them on twitter and the newsletter.
Seem to be a lot waiting on this info, hope it's positive Julian!
I still need to build the kit - it's next but one in the queue...
But don't expect them to be available this year
a rough assembly guide is online
http://www.sonic-potions.com/metalAssembly
The light pipes took most time , some of the rubber rings are tricky to squeeze on but it's doable.
Button 2 and 3 are quite tight so I think I need to slightly file the holes slightly
I haven't hooked in the switch yet either
I plan to put small amount of glue on each light pipe and secure the lcd panel
I may also put a little tape around the edge to protect the edges a little , maybe even do it g reel like the Roland stuff.
And finally I may get an iPad screen cover and cut it to go over entire top , they're only £1 in discount shops.
Overall nicely made box
Are they misaligned with the holes or the pots?
But I didn't build it myself, so I guess the are soldered off center
Because of this I can't screw the PCB write down meaning some buttons don't come through fully and the flex on the PCB needed to make the buttons usable is scary.