FINISHED!!!

124

Comments

  • edited October 2013
    Hey guys. After a lot delay (disappeared parcel from the first batch and a broken ic) i finished my LXR last night and it works and sounds great. Same as Revok i've a 20pin conector and 2 screws left over but since everything works nice i'm not worried about that
    =;
  • the 20 pin connector can be used for the AVR ISP programming header and the currently unused expansion port next to the AVR on the right.

    congrats on the successful build! It was a long way for you ;)
  • thank you julian. it really was a long long way but i wouldn't have come that long without your help and kindness. >:D<
    i guessed that the connector could be for an extension or something like that
  • All the leftover screws are part of the MasterPlan to readjust the earths axis by the screws weight to compensate for the Nutation . . . . id like to have snow for xMas every year instead of a period of 18,6/2 years.
    Ill go grab another Tannenzäpfle ;-)
  • Finished mine over the weekend. This... is so unbelievably cool! I'm just getting to know all the options, and Julian is adding more at an awesome pace. It's my first hardware synth, and first DIY project.

    Could... not.. be.. happier!

    I'll be working on integrating it with some Usine patches (drum sequencing) that I've already developed but which could be tuned to be a complete sequencing option for the LXR. Step sequencers for any and every param? Check. Prefer an LFO or an envelope? Check and check. I'll try to do a demo of what is already available (ie in the current sequencer patch) this weekend.

    I ended up with an extra resistor and a missing yellow LED. Julian hasn't responded to my emails about it, probably because I've been spamming him like a tweaked out noob during the whole process ;)
  • I laser cut the frontplate from Shiftr's case design last night...  The button feel is a lot better now that the frontplate supports them a little more.
  • Pardon my ignorance, but what kind of tool does one use to do this (make your own case)?
  • edited October 2013
    I made my first frontplate from a piece of acrylic by hand with a Dremel, but the nice looking cases are made with laser cutters.  Not a tool many people would have at home, but there are most likely a few commercial laser cutting places around where you live.

    There are some cutter templates in this thread: http://forum.sonic-potions.com/discussion/comment/1416

    I made mine at a hacklab space - basically a bunch of people who make things share a space and a bunch of tools like laser cutters, 3d printers, oscilloscopes, etc.

    Here's a youtube video of a laser cutter cutting acrylic:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CN5CvB47fL8
  • edited October 2013
    Incidentally, if anyone wants my old frontplate, you're welcome to it...  I'm in Toronto.  It's a little loose around the buttons, but it works.

    This one: 


  • Thats too cool! Thanks for sharing.
  • Where in Toronto is this hacklab?
  • Kensington, the door right beside Graffiti on baldwin.  https://hacklab.to - they do an open-house thing tuesday nights after 6pm.  Just stop by and walk right in, everyone's pretty friendly.  I met a modular synth designer guy there last night and had a pretty enlightening conversation.  He does these things: http://www.kilpatrickaudio.com/

    There's another one on ossington somewhere as well... Haven't been there yet though.  Different organization, same concept.


  • Oh yeah I know of Kilpatrick's stuff!  Some great modules!  Thanks for the info!
  • edited November 2013
    Did it!

    image
  • Its naked!
  • I told you!
  • edited November 2013
    I just finished the build of my new LXR Synth yesterday! It's my first DIY kit and (almost) everything seems to work!! Great machine, and great to build it. I might want to build more synths myself now. Is this addictive??

    Anyhow, the LED of the Open Hat doesn't work (the voice itself works just fine). I checked soldering already (which seems ok) and measured the voltage of the LEDs (it's around 2.1 V everywhere, except for the mentioned LED of the OpHat). I'm really new to soldering and electronics, so I have no clue where to start looking next for possible errors. Any suggestions?

    Then I seem not to be able to update the firmware. I'm currently on 0.23, but when I reboot the machine with a newer version of the firmware (0.24 in that case), it still says that I'm running 0.23 on the display. The presets on the SD-card are recognized though. Also I checked the file system of the SD-card, it's FAT32. Do I overlook an obvious step (like uploading the .bin file to the Synth or something)?  -- Solved, very obvious indeed...

    Regardless I'm very excited about the LXR and the whole project.

    Cheers!
  • mazamo, there should be a firmware.bin on your SD card and you need to hold down the lone encoder to the side of the lcd as you switch the lxr on to get the update starting.
  • edited November 2013
    possibly your dead LED is soldered the wrong way around? if not you could still desolder it and a working one and resolder them back, swapping their locations, to check if the LED itself is a dud.
  • edited November 2013
    @mokomo: Yeah the encoder trick did it. Thanks!
    As for the LED I'm pretty sure it's soldered in the correct way. The anode is pointing up just like with all the other LEDs. I'll try to swap the LED with one of the working ones to see if it's a broken diode. But I thought since I don't measure any voltage at the solder points I could assume that the connection points were dead?! Then again, I actually don't have any clue really ;).

    Thanks for the help!
  • edited November 2013

    Just want to show you my LXR. I built it within two nights without any problems at all.

    It sounds great. And with the ability to load your own samples it's even greater! I have a lot of fun with it!

    And it's in good company with my two Shruthi's (SMR4 mkII and Transistor Ladder filter) with metal cases.

  • @mokomo: Yeah the encoder trick did it. Thanks!
    As for the LED I'm pretty sure it's soldered in the correct way. The anode is pointing up just like with all the other LEDs. I'll try to swap the LED with one of the working ones to see if it's a broken diode. But I thought since I don't measure any voltage at the solder points I could assume that the connection points were dead?! Then again, I actually don't have any clue really ;).

    Thanks for the help!
    regarding your led - have a look at page 7 of the schematic
    http://www.sonic-potions.com/sites/default/files/documents/FrontpanelSchematic.pdf
    the 7 voice LEDs are in the lower right corner.
    Voice 7 (openHH) is connected to pin3 of RR5 (the 220 ohm network)
    and to pin 1 of U13 (HC595).
    Just measure the continuity (beep) between the LED and those pins to check for a soldering error.

  • @Julian: Thanks, I'll look into it.
  • Finished! Great kit, fun build, very well organized and seems like a solid machine. Lots to learn about it now...

    Cheers Julian!
  • Just want to show you my LXR. I built it within two nights without any problems at all.

    It sounds great. And with the ability to load your own samples it's even greater! I have a lot of fun with it!And it's in good company with my two Shruthi's (SMR4 mkII and Transistor Ladder filter) with metal cases.
    where did you get the shruthi cases? Look great.
  • @mokomo: Yeah the encoder trick did it. Thanks!
    As for the LED I'm pretty sure it's soldered in the correct way. The anode is pointing up just like with all the other LEDs. I'll try to swap the LED with one of the working ones to see if it's a broken diode. But I thought since I don't measure any voltage at the solder points I could assume that the connection points were dead?! Then again, I actually don't have any clue really ;).

    Thanks for the help!
    regarding your led - have a look at page 7 of the schematic
    http://www.sonic-potions.com/sites/default/files/documents/FrontpanelSchematic.pdf
    the 7 voice LEDs are in the lower right corner.
    Voice 7 (openHH) is connected to pin3 of RR5 (the 220 ohm network)
    and to pin 1 of U13 (HC595).
    Just measure the continuity (beep) between the LED and those pins to check for a soldering error.

    OK, so I found the weak link. It was pin 1 of U13. After resoldering the LED is now working :-S!! Thanks for the help!!
  • Finisched !!!

    A friend of mine who is a violinmaker , made these sides for me to give it a litle touch .

  • Sweet!


    Sent from my iPhone using [URL=http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1]Tapatalk[/URL]
  • looks great! :)
Sign In or Register to comment.