Altitude
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would probably help if you told us where youre located
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^FPE case I designed. The amount of text and graphics made this type of case cost prohibitive but now that they do full color printing, game on.
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Sorry, thought he had a link http://www.barcodecircuits.net/shop/
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It's not my PCB, info is in the link below the video
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>I suppose it would be fairly easily modded and stuff... I wouldnt suppose that. Adding analog controls to a digital device isnt trivial.
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shorts will be in the ohm range, not the kilohm. Continuity testers on a meter will beep under several ohms (some are adjustable). A short beep on the power rails is normal since capacitors need a second to charge and will read as a brief short
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In fact, if you ground it at the AGND only (pulling the pin from the 14pin male header), its gone..
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There is something odd going on between the grounds for sure. I have a quick fix though, jumper the ground on the trigger board to one of the GND connections on the audio output (not the switched side). For some reason, only that spot works, anywh…
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Think you are missing one (No Window P2) Just in case my labeling is cryptic (it makes sense in my head, no necessarily to anyone else) LXR_windows.eps: P1 size with snap in windows for the opaque cases. You can use clear or tinted plexi (I like t…
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you will need a special case, a standard display wont work with a normal case
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I need to clean them up, but I'll get them to you in a bit..
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pm your email. I have both
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woot, more DIY smd projects And finally a delay that's not based on a PT2399
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That's my whole point, a merge device is the wrong way to go, there is no parsing of the midi stream so if a controller message arrives at the merge at the same time as a controller message there is no system to say what has priority. With a secon…
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have you thought about adding a second midi in? I'm not sure what that would accomplish. If you're looking for a merge box, might I recommend http://www.midisolutions.com/? The 60 knobs controller. I'm not crazy about their "merge the midi in with…
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have you thought about adding a second midi in?
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you want a tissue?
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hmm. soldering looks tidy. When you pull all the chips off, what the resistance between +5 and GND?
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The odds of an actual bad part are very slim. Post some high res pics of the mainboard, component and solder side
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Its going to be tough without the board files but looking at the schematic, you can start by looking around the power pins for each chip (i.e. anything that connects to +5) , chances are there is a solder bridge somewhere
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5V power rail short. Your voltage regulator is overheating and shutting down as a result. You can start by pulling the boards apart and powering it, if it still gets super hot, its on the main board, if not it's on the button board
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It's not something an architecture firm would have, its something you would find in a factory. To cut a 1mm thick piece of aluminum, you need a 1000 watt C02 laser. You're probably better off with non-ferrous materials. This is what a 1000 watt las…
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Very cool, interested in seeing the board(s). Might be time to build an LXR for myself They need to dump using the main midi in and put that nice unused expansion header to work
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unless this is a massive machine, you wont be able to cut metal thats of any useful thickness (usually ~1mm for standard CO2 machines). The files for the case are in the wiki
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Best thing I have found so far is double sided clear tape
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buffered mult is what you want, its a current, not voltage issue. If you mult too many destinations, the circuit cant drive the load and the voltage drops
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I'll add a hardware one: Tighter footprints for the tacts.. They are SUPER loose and make it difficult to get them all to line up which makes for stuck caps down the road.
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Going into a MFOS ADSR gate in, I'll double check it with another device though to make sure it's not that (although the good one works fine with it). I still need to probe the pins for the two that dont work and compare with the one that does so I…
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Ok, maybe this want clear two posts above: This is NOT HAPPENING for the reasons stated
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That's what you want, a graphic one wont work. If you have crazy characters on your display, there may be bad solder joints so check for those first