Altitude
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I'm stumped with this. 2 out of 3 that I have show this behavior. When I press on the board around the opamp, it will come back then fade out again. Reflowed all joints, switched ompamp, problem stays the same
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yup, exactly. It literally gets lower and lower then disappears (the LED fades as well)
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I'll go out on a limb and say 3.3v midi out of the OT? If a buffer/spliter between the two fixes it, then that's it
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For the archive: this is a power issue when using a wall wart that that cannot supply enough current. When all LEDs are on (which can happen on bootup) the device draws ~420 mA with the stock LEDs, if the supply cannot provide that much, the voltag…
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Gents, I went over the parts I had cut and the three cases I have here and this is simply not going to work, the tolerances on the windows and the thickness of the paint make this a fool's errand. The dimensions I took of the one case do work for t…
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that did it. thanks (sweeping out cobwebs)
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struggling a bit with these, the second run was all shades of messed up since apparently the kerf is different on the 1.5mm material than it is on the 2mm stuff so they came out loose as hell. Will try another batch with the next laser cutting order
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here are the results of the prototypes:
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After long delay in getting my cases, I have them. The parts I ordered over the break dont fit, I now have the dimensions for parts that do fit (vertical mill to the rescue) and have ordered another set of windows. There is another issue though, t…
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Rowan: Exactly those. I use them all the time as drop in replacements for 7805. Full load and 18V DC in they barely get warm
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You can always shell out the extra cash for a Recom or similar switching vReg and replace the 78xx. They run about $10 and are cool as a cucumber
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That's a clue, it shouldnt get that hot.. That low resistance on the 3.3 sounds fishy
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What makes you think the STM is fried, its a uC, nothing going bad with that would cause what you're seeing. A voltage drop is usually the result of a power rail short.. How hot are the voltage regulators getting? Put your meter in diode mode (be…
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You should be able just to pull it off, I use some paper towel for extra grip. DONT try to pry it off the panel
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@sammy yeah I'm in.
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sweet. All over it. What's the part# of those tacts? They look cool and I've never seen those caps before
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Ponoko. I have the files for the midibox ones, shoot me a PM with your email
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Prototypes ordered.. These came out to $0.20 each btw
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sorry :P For reference: I tested this with my x0x as a clock source running through a Midibox CV which translates midi clock to a 32 ppqn 5V clock signal with start/stop. The start/stop signal goes high when on, back down when off (I verified all …
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Hm. When slaved to external clock, the seqencer does not stop when the reset goes low. I have to press the play button twice to get it to stop..
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Done as well. Works great!
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@shiftr no, there will be a new header
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slick, Where will that sit? not a ton of real estate on the back
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Thought it was this thread but it must have been somewhere else where you mentioned jacks being a problem with the 3mm plexi, these are the ones I use (for that reason alone) and they clear 3mm plexi: These are Kobiconn 161-7400-EX (mouser)
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You need to solder wires to the STM board to board header. I'm just going to lay it out on protoboard, there is only 4 parts per channel so not really a big deal to make.
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Get the 30mm PEC12 and cut it down to length (652-PEC12-4230FS0024). The 25mm parts are not due till November so you will have to make due.. DONT get the 20mm ones, they wont work with the shrouded knobs like used in the LXR
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Dank!
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+1 on the fatman, great learning kit
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sorry should have been more clear, by documentation, I meant schematic..
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I'm game if you still need someone,