[solved] Few hardware glitch (my bad)

pierre

As a result of lack of experience, and a really bad soldering Iron I might have screwed up a bit. I did since bought a good Iron and the last part went smoothly but still, I might need help.

1. I think I damaged some ofthe RR6 traces, I can't find a shematic on the site, my question is on which leg of the switches should the pull down resistance be hooked, I think the way to go would be to put individual 10 ks to the ground, three of the led seem to act weirdly, don't stay put, I think that's for the button 9-10-11 but not entirely sure, I'm not home right now, would that make sense that switches around those are linked to the Network RR6? some of the little plates that you solder on are actually lifted, I believed I could connect directly to the switch leg.

2 On the first test I didn't get the chasing, nor blinking going when I pressed start Nothing happened. Most of the led seem to be behaving normally, except those mentionned in 1 but I'm not sure, should every led light up by any button I press? If that's the case there's more problems, the voice ones are working, the substep ones as well, and the one that is on at startup as well, but all the start, record, pattern, etc dont react, but I have to say that last night I didn't have a sd card, so I wasn't expecting any sound, just basically pressing all the button. Any idea where to check first? The display and the encoders seams to be acting normal, but yeah I'll have a better idea when i read the manual, and I actually try to make sound, Just tough i'd throw in where i'm at in case you happen to know what's going on.

 I'm not too much in a rush, is there any shematics somewhere? would help a lot in troubleshooting, hopefully I didn't ruin it all, I'm confident that I can fix this. I would rather have a unit not so clean looking than start all over again with a new PCB ($), cause nothing is fried, the IC don't heat up, and the voltage checks are alright, so probably little things

Thanks for the help.

Pierre

cj55

Hi pierre,

1. yes, buttons 9, 10, 11 are linked to RR 6. You can find the schematic easily in the assembly instructions. There is a link: http://www.sonic-potions.com/sites/default/files/documents/FrontpanelSchematic.pdf
Have a look at page 6/7 of the schematics.

2. I think, you need the SD card for properly testing this.

pierre

Thanks much, so after testing, the start button is not working, and I suspect the ones around it neither, any toughts? I'll start with the pulldown I guess, and study the schematics but any help is welcome

julian

so you are able to set steps? The 16 step buttons light the LED over them when you push them?
This indicates that the mainboard is working, too.
So the problem should be around the start/stop button group.

here is a list from the wiki where all the buttons are connected:

each of the 165 ICs controls 8 buttons. the groups are the following:

• U2: Seq. buttons 1-8
  
• U5: Seq. buttons 9-16
  
• U6: Select buttons 1-8
  
• U10: Start, Rec, Shift, Voice, Perf., Step, Load/Save
  
• U12: Voice buttons 1-7 and Copy button
  

So you should look around U10 for the start button.

here are 2 images of the start button connection. one shows the 5V power supply, the other the connection to U10 and the 10k resistor network.



If all buttons in this group (U10: Start, Rec, Shift, Voice, Perf., Step, Load/Save) are not working, the error is probably located around U10, not the buttons.

U10 is the last IC in the shift register chain. So please check the following connections:

• pin 2 of U10 should be connected to pin 28 of the AVR
  
• pin 1 of U10 IC should be connected to pin 27 of the AVR
  
• pin 10 of U12 should be connected to pin 9 of U10
  

pierre

thanks,I was able to get step 9 and eleven, by connecting  10 Ks to the ground. to and that's right, the U-10 wasn't in properly. I'm just missing step 10 now It's not the led, nor the pull down. it wasn't the button neither. by pushing hard on U5 I was able to get it to work for a full 15 second...but that's after I already damaged the switch by trying to remove it. So I'll need to find an other one of those. There was also missing a green led in the package, I've put a slightly different one, but that doesn't work (it's on the "step" switch at the moment. I believe this is not hard to find. So  According to your schematics button 10 is connected to pin 5 on the u5, could you guys direct me in which direction I should start counting cause the dot is center of the chip, on the left. I know it's probably a bad soldering but I'm reluctant to take the socket off, unsoldering haven't been so great for me, even with the solder sucker, and the copper tress ting. Probably would be easier if it was done right at first, that's how you learn I guess...By the way this thing sounds great..

thanks again

julian

you don't have to remove the socket.
normally it is enough to just reflow the solder (just re-heat it until it melts)
If you can't find the button/led replacement, let me know and I will send you one.

pierre

Thanks a lot Julian, I ordered from digikey, it's just very fast in Canada, normally a day or two. In the mean time could you confirm that step 10 is really pin 5 that's what I can read but it did act weird when I connected the hot side of the switch to it, it lighted up the step 11 led but maybe there was something wrong with my testing, but I tought it was worth asking

pierre

Oups, should be the grounded side obviously... I'll get there

pierre

Great! all good now, time for some serious beat making

julian

yippie!
Congratulations!
)

pierre

Well I might have been a little too enthusiastic. The L1 output doesn't work. This one could be harder, I tried a few different things but I might be confused so I see pin 28 and 38 from the main board. which one's on is tip and which one is sleeve? should they be connect to the shorter side or the side where the metal wraps around the connector? I tried a few different thing and I heard sound, but I'm still not sure what is what cause it was either just static, or a buzz, or maybe the signal but didn't hold the wire steady enough to really know...It could also be a combination of things cause there seam to be some logic to the switching process (If there's no cable in what it's suppose to be routed it feeds to all other outputs am I right? seams to be something like that.) 

thanks

julian

are the green jumpers on the mainboard still seated correctly?

pierre

pierre

they look alright

julian

this is the tip of the cable where the signal is on


here are the switch contacts used for plug detection


and the upper right pad labeled  "S" (Sleeve) is GND

pierre

thanks I'll try that

pierre

..Haven't work, maybe the connector is faulty? hope it's not the main board, so basically any of the top two pin is signal right? With the wired that is attached to the upper left pin, I was hearing static in my speaker if i touch one of the two signal pin...trying to figure out what it mean I'm confused about that one. I do have continuity between any of the two pins and the lower right pad...this is true from the top of the machine, as well as from the main board, so the connections of the board look alright, let me know if you have an idea.

Thanks again from your great help

julian

This is viewed from the top, where the buttons and the display is.

• Top right is GND.

• Top left is used to detect if a plug is inserted. If a plug is in the jack, this pin will measure 5V. If no plug/cable is inserted it should be 0V/GND
• Bottom left is not connected to anything
• bottom right is where the audio signal will be

you can measure if the jack is busted (which i doubt. just leave the LXR tunred off. Insert a cable and measure continuity between the tip of the cable and the signal pin from the jack. Do the same for the GND pin and the sleeve of the cable.

I would also measure continuity between the signal pin of the jack and the corresponding mainboard pin.
Normally the mainboard outs should work. Each mainboard is tested before I send them out.

julian

basically any of the top two pin is signal right?

No. Only the bottom right pin has signal.

I do have continuity between any of the two pins

continuity between the upper 2 pins is normal as long as no cable is plugged into the jack

and the lower right pad...

Here seems to be the error. If you have continuity between the lower right pad and the upper pads, your output is shorted to GND.

this is true from the top of the machine, as well as from the main board, so the connections of the board look alright, let me know if you have an idea.

Thanks again from your great help

If you remove the mainboard an measure continuity again. Is the short on the front or on the mainboard?

I would think on the frontpanel. Maybe have a close look at the soldering of the jack and the left mainboard connector 'P2' Maybe the soldermask got scratched off and the pin is shorted to GND?

pierre

Sorry I was talking about the top to pin of the main board connector

julian

ah ok
top 2 pins have signal, yes.
And both are connected.

Are you using a SD card and have you loaded a preset sound?
Just to be sure it is not set to stereo out and the panning is all right
Just a single mono cable inserted into jack 1?

pierre

so continuity check is right for everything Ground to Upper right, Lower right to the top two pins of the main board connector,  no connectivity between signal pin and Ground/switch, and inserting a cable open the circuit between the top to pins of the jack

pierre

Yes, choosing L1 as an output have the same behavior as choosing stereo 1 and panning hard left, I loose my sound, so the firmware is behaving normally

pierre

I mesure 3.3 V on the switch pin, not 5 V

pierre

As it is the same on every other outputs that work

pierre

I should have fought of that first but I do have a scope, no signal from the pins, normal behavior from all other signal pins so really there's nothing leaving the main board

julian

ah sorry. 3.3V is correct.

julian

strange. the 1st two outputs are coming from the same codec chip.
So either the connection from the codec over the dual jumper to the pin header is damaged or one of the channels of the codec stopped working...
:-?

julian

these are the traces from the codec to the pin header.
maybe measure at c20, pin1 if there is a signal there.

pierre

Should I see signal from one of the jumper pins? if yes, which one?

pierre

Yes there is signal at c20, the signal is on the Right pin, and if i insert the jumper it does transfer to left pin (the main board being top left, synth over under