cj55
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No experience with two LXRs, but should be no problem with a standard MIDI Out to MIDI In connection.
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Desolder the LF33CV and check if there is still a short between 3.3V and GND. If yes, then the mainboard has an other problem. It is normal that the 7805 gets very hot when the LF33CV pulls to much current from it.
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You can find the part numbers for the button caps here (BOM): https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1dhOpxs3LkENhn3HkLCRWKNwQmNNlita0hvzRxMflwmE/htmlembed?gid=0&widget=false Unfortunately only available at Mouser or Digikey
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What's the actual resistance between +5V and GND? Can you compare it to your other modul you built a couple month ago?
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One of the connections from pin 9 is redundant, because there is already a connection between the resistor and the IC in the corner on the board. But doesn't matter. And please cut all component wires on the solder side as short as possible! They ca…
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I am really sorry that you have so much trouble with your LXR. From your discription, it is most likely a faulty potentiometer/knob.
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Here are the Mouser order numbers for the round switch caps: Black: 611-21125 White: 611-F0202 Grey: 611-F0204 Red: 611-F0203 Unfortunately no other colors available.
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@nightworxx: to me it doesn't look like the nose is the only problem. On the pictures posted by mongrol and flo it looks like there is not enough space for the pot "body" between the PCB and the metal case (even without the nose).
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Seems like there is another type of potentiometer with the latest kits. And they are not compatible at all with the new metal case. I would adwise not to solder these pots until there is a solution!
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Easiest solution would be a MIDI through box after the Octatrack to split the MIDI signal (until the LXR bug will be fixed).
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@mongrol: there is something wrong with your pots soldering. Normally they sit flush on the pcb. Sometimes they need a little force and a bit wiggling to get them through the pcb holes. Or did you sourced some other pots by yourself?
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If you have a revision 0.3 board you have to change R21 to 10 Ohm. 1KOhm is for the newer revision.
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Yes, it's easy: The resistor (R) and the LED are connected in series. This means the current (I) of the LED (data sheet) will also flow through the resistor (R). The supply 5V divide up in the known voltage of the LED (data sheet) and the rest will …
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RST should be +5V. I have just measured it on my device. So there is something wrong with your trigger extension. One thing I noticed: directly after start-up the RST signal is 0V, only after pressing play and stop, the signal is +5V.
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Would also like the option of 24 PPQN. I already requested that 1 1/2 years ago ;-) http://forum.sonic-potions.com/discussion/356/feature-suggestion-din-sync#Item_1
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Have you soldered the jacks the right way round? The jacks on the left side have to be soldered mirrored to the jacks on the right side (see pictures in the assembly guide).
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It's the same ;-) The firmware is flashed on the ATmega (on the frontpanel board) and on the ARM STM32F04 (on the mainboard). To update both of them you need to copy the firmware file to the SD card and flash it once to the microcontroller chips (en…
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Yes, most likely it's a bad solder joint somewhere on the display connection. Try to resolder all of them.
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- Pattern change reset mode. This is a new global setting that, when turned on, will cause song counter to start from 0 whenever a pattern changes. This prevents the behavior of not playing the displayed number of repetitions for a pattern (when i…
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I actually recommend to read the changelog here: https://github.com/SonicPotions/LXR/blob/master/Changelog.txt
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Save/Load performance: - this new save option lets you save the current drum patch along with the pattern set and the BPM into one file allowing multiple slots. Save/Load all: - this new save option lets you save all the data in the LXR (kit, patt…
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Just scroll with the encoder to the trigger related settings in the menu. The AEG button have no effect here. I think the description is from an old firmware.
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The trigger IO extension can only output 0 or 5V. It's a hardware limitation. You can do a lot by firmware modification, but not all ;-)
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Glad it is working now! Opening and reassambling the enclosure is always a bit fiddly. And I can understand that one wants to avoid it.
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Easiest way to check the MIDI in is to connect a keyboard directly or a DAW via MIDI interface. But this is, what you tried already. Next step would be to check your hardware. The first thing to check here: is the optocoupler (6N138) inserted the ri…
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@Martn: Have you configured the right MIDI channel on the LXR? And yes, you can use the MIDI out as MIDI through port. You can choose the routing with the mrt setting. And the filtering with the txf (transmit) and rxf (receive) setting. This is des…
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>>I than decided to check the connection on the oled and resolder it by heating the pads a little. Now everything is black, no led lighting, nothing. Did you maybe resoldered it while the LXR was powered? And what do you mean with everything…
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A short means a value near 0 Ohm. Your measured values don't look bad.
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Either there is still a bad solder joint, that means a bad connection of the display. --> check the voltage between pin 1 and 2 of the OLED connector. Are you measuring 5V? Or there is a short between the solder joints of the OLED connector. --&…
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Have you read my edited post? Your High Fuse and Low Fuse settings are right, not shure about the Extended Fuse setting.