›

(LXR METAL ENCLOSURE) How to mount the tigger I/O board

genossegenosse
edited December 2015 in Troubleshooting
Hello guys,

I feel seriously stupid that I have to ask this, but how can I mount the trigger I/O board to the new metal enclosure?

Assembly guide has this to say: Install the trigger IO onto the bolts in the bottom of the case. Use 4 of the pointy tip screws to hide the small holes in the back of the case.

Problem is: The bottom of my case has no mounting bolts whatsoever (see photo).

What am I missing here? Thanks in advance!

Comments

  • tb323tb323
    Fasten it with nuts on the jacks to the back of the case.
  • genossegenosse
    edited December 2015
    Well yeah that will certainly hold it in place and I will probably resort to that, but is this really the intended method to mount it? If so, the guide should be updated imho.
  • tb323tb323
    I think that is the intended way. Can't see how else it should be done. I agree about the guide. :)
  • genossegenosse
    edited December 2015
    Hello again!

    I finally got hold of the right nuts to mount the I/O board and I could move the LXR to its new shell.

    It is really stunning and has such a weight to it, the little guy now feels pretty much indestructible. Awesome and well worth the money and time invested! :)

    I'd like to take a moment to give some hints to some other DIY beginners like me, who might read this and who might face similar difficulties:

    1.) If you displaced or threw away the original 3,5 mm nuts that came with the trigger I/O expansion jacks, you can order replacement jacks here for a few cents (Reichelt, Germany): http://www.reichelt.de/Klinkeneinbaubuchsen/EBS-35/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=7301&GROUPID=5172&artnr=EBS+35

    You will probably only need the nuts, but the jacks might come in handy as a replacement or for a new project.

    2.) I secured the acrylic display window with a tiny amount of transparent epoxy, which doesn't make much of a mess and holds everything together really well. If you smear some of the glue you can wipe it away with a wet towel since it takes a bit to dry and does not corrode the plastic.

    3.) After moving from the acrylic enclosure to the metal one, I had to cut the display connector pins short or else the PCB would not fit and bend when screwing it to the face plate. This happened to me at first (did not notice it right away), but did fortunately not cause any permanent damage to the board.

    So thanks again tb for helping me with this issue and of course thanks to Julian for this great unit. Many more moons of fun to come ... ;)
  • AdrianAdrian
    Good that you managed to assemble it, but the idea is that I\O board will be fixed to main PCB with 3 spacers.
  • julianjulian
    i'll update the manual accordingly.
    sorry for the confusion!
  • tb323tb323
    edited January 2016
    @Adrian if the I/O board should be fixed to the main PCB with 3 spacers, they should look like this right? To utilize the holes in the top of the enclosure. Maybe they could be included in future kits.
  • AdrianAdrian
    @tb323 yes these are the ones. M3 female to male. 
    I could include them in next batch.
Sign In or Register to comment.