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Hardware revision batch 2

julianjulian
edited July 2013 in Technical details and features
For the 2nd batch I want to make some improvements to the PCB.
Batch 1 PCBs work fine, but there is much room to make the build easier and still some cosmetical problems ;)

So far I have the following changes on my todo list:
- resistor networks instead of the 10k pullups and the 220ohm LED resistors (phew this was more work than I thought!)
- move resistors away from USB jack
- throw out the DT6 switch footprints
- change LED resistor label from 27k to R_LED
- Fix silkscreen on ISP header
- round corners
- make footprint for AVR 47nf capacitor fit a 2.5 and a 5mm capacitors
- add additional electrolyt cap to buffer SD card hotplugging
- fix diode footprints (they are too big)
- fix LED footprint so the part orientation can be seen (flat side was cut off by pad on batch 1 boards

I will re-read the pioneer run feedback thread and look for additional change requests. If you have an idea whats missing I'm happy to know!

Comments

  • julianjulian
    regarding the LEDs too close to the voice buttons.
    I have to think about what the best solution would be.
    If I move them away from the buttons they will break the grid everything is align on at the moment.

  • diwibdiwib
    edited July 2013
    Seeing how there's unused holes under the buttons, maybe use the other buttons you had in mind (if you did)? They seem to be smaller and maybe it's just my bad luck but 2 of the buttons I've put in my box already feel worn out. In fact it took ravaging one of them with pliers to be more responsive than needing to literally punch it.
    It's working well now but still *feels* crappy.
  • julianjulian
    the other buttons are horrible!  :P
    I have the feeling they get worse from day to day.

    Normally the TL1100 buttons currently used are well tested (xoxbox, shruthi, beat707 etc)
    But you remind me, I wanted to see if i can include the additional hole needed for the high quality omron switches.

    Your 2 defektive switches, did they look ok or do you think they got damaged during shipping?

  • diwibdiwib
    edited July 2013
    I remember one had a bent leg but I can't recall if it was one of the bad ones. I'm fairly certain that it was though. If they looked bad I wouldn't have put them in, but I forgot to test them myself :s

    Glad I could remind you of something though!

    A little edit: I was pretty scared of frying my LEDs trying to position them straight. Maybe LED sockets like on the Midialf could make it somewhat more convenient?
  • weNiverseweNiverse
    While I wait patiently for Germany to let go my LXR, should I be getting new knobs? Some of the posts I've seen are discouraging. Should it warrant a thread of "things you should be mindful of whilst building first run kits?
  • julianjulian
    Why should you get new knobs? What is the problem in those other posts you are tsalking about?
    As far as I know people are quite happy with their kits so far.

    Nearly all afforementioned fixes are more of a cosmetical, not a functional character.
    The Batch 1 PCBs are working just fine.
    The only thing that really fixes an issue is the USB plug thing (fixable with a piece of paper or some tape) and the additional 100uF cap, since some SD cards draw a lot of power when hotplugging them. Out of my 4 SD cards only 1 needs the additional cap.

    The rest of the fixes are either a wrong or misleading label in the silkscreen or a way to reduce the part count/solder work.
  • weNiverseweNiverse
    edited July 2013
    I did mean to say "buttons," but thank you. I'm just being a worry wart. Sorry

  • julianjulian
    No problem. The 2 replacement knobs for diwib are already on it's way ;)
  • diwibdiwib
    edited July 2013
    Ahah, right, another issue. The two Potis I put to the right are a little bit harder to twist than the two to the left. It's nothing bad though and neither a fun killer, in fact I found some menu tweaks to be VERY sensitive, so in that case a more stiff poti is actually a bonus.

    Had no problem at all with the knobs themselves. Maybe double check you're ready to mount them because I gave up trying to remove the front panel in fear of breaking the encoder after I noticed I forgot the spacer right above the encoder. Just put a long screw in there now, does the trick ^^

    (whoops, you two posted while I was still typing. I'll leave this here anyhow.)


  • VarthdaderVarthdader
    My recomendation with loose buttons is to use Silicone sealant (clear is best) to "stick" them. Just put a dab of it on the button´s square and press the cap on it. Leave it overnight just to be sure.

    This way, you get a good grip, but you could remove it easier than plain old glue.

    Julian: Would there be a way to add this SD card Cap on the Batch 1 kits? I would be interested in "future proofing" my LXR against future SD card swaps.
  • julianjulian
    @Varthdader see here http://www.sonic-potions.com/forum/discussion/21/sd-card-hot-plug-error
  • VarthdaderVarthdader
    Super! Thanks!
  • julianjulian
    While I wait patiently for Germany to let go my LXR, should I be getting new knobs? Some of the posts I've seen are discouraging.
    Ah, I think you mean the post about the loose button caps?
    This is normal. The round button caps (the plastic thingies you put onto the switches) have a very loose fit. So you have to glue them on.
  • weNiverseweNiverse
    cool beans
  • shiftrshiftr
    I don't think you should use resistor networks for the leds. That way it can be very hard to make a custom color scheme using leds that need different resisors. For the switches it would be great.
  • julianjulian
    In the end it is just a resistor to ground... so maybe a place for a network with additional ground pads if one wants to use custom resistor values? So you could insert either a network or 8 single resistors into the footprint?

  • VarthdaderVarthdader
    I am all for having options! I think it´s a good idea to acomodate a basic layout with the resistors and an optional layout with individual resistors.
  • dlylinedlyline
    you can get DIP resistor networks (cost a little more) .. then they use the same footprint.
  • fcd72fcd72
    the main reason usinr rnets is saving space, so diprnets are a bit pointless as thea are much more xpensive + dont save space or solderjoints. good solition wouls be using rnets for the buttons near the 165s an normal rs for the leds each directly next to the led so everybody can adjust them without counting pins or consulting schematics.
  • julianjulian
    I think I will go for resistor networks for the LEDs and an additional resistor footprint next to the LED.
    So you can either populate the network or use a resistor next to the LED.

    Another point why i'm keen on networks is that I hated sorting the resistor bag ;)
  • shiftrshiftr
    Can't beat that one :) ... But then leave out the optional pads it will just confuse people... If you really want you could roll your own network...
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