It's not easy to replace the wrong resistor networks (desoldering is no fun!) I would recommend to just solder all the normal LED resistors (which are unequipped up to now) additionally to the wrong resistor networks. Then you have parallel circuits of the resistors. 220KOhm II 220 Ohm = 219,78 Ohm
Yeah so I removed just the RR4 network and put a single 220 into the voice button led and now that LED lights on boot. So I ordered the right networks from mouser and Ill report back when I replace them. I just cut them right off from the top and pull the scraps out and put the new ones in rather then solder 40 single 220's. I dont have anymore 220 singles anyway. Just had one extra lying around.
I think so. Not entirely sure as I need to wait for the right LED resistor networks to come. It was the only item on your BOM that wasnt filled in so I didnt order the right ones by my mistake.
Here it is at mouser if you want to add it to your BOM by the way:
Ok got the new networks and popped them and as you can only guess the buttons still don't work. LEDs all seem to be fine now though as I can take out all the button ICs(165s) except the first one in the chain and I can press the first trigger button in the sequence and get it to do wacky things and all LEDs light up once or another when this happens. ITs as I was describing previously where I could make it get to different screens by just having that first IC in. Also I can put the second one in too and get to behave the same way(u5). Once I put U6 or u10 in then I cant press anything to make it do anything anymore. Also when I can make it do wacky things its only for a little bit when I first power it on. Then button presses dont do anything anymore but encoders and pots still work fine. I even got it to run the sequencer somehow a couple times but you can't select any triggers in the seqence. When it powers on the voice light comes on and the drum 1 light.
Well I mean the behavior if just U2 and u5 in is very weird too. What should happen when those two ICs are in alone with just all the 595's and the 4050? Should it definitively work for a few controls? Because right now its just spastic and sporadic. My friend lives about an hour away so its not really easy to pop over and put it on the scope again. I've re-soldered everything at least 15 times over. I've checked continuity for all ICS and AVR from top pin to bottom pin and side to side on each pins for shorts. I feel like i've exhausted every avenue. Resistors are all orientated right. Double checked to see if I had the right resistors in he network slots after I had the wrong ones for the LEDs(had 220k and now 220). The other ones are confirmed 10k(for buttons) from the BOM. I've swapped every single 165 I have to see maybe its a bad IC. Could it be an issue with the crystal? Or a cap is wrong somewhere?
Like I said in my first post. I didn't use a kit for this build. I sourced everything from mouser that is on the BOM. Could there be a part on there that is not correct that I am missing?
Also Ill say again, my AVR worked perfectly in billieblaze's LXR. So the AVR and firmware are solid. Ive also re-flashed it from the SD card at least 10 times.
I am using an SDHC card is that correct?
Edit:I just pulled every 165 and tried each one in my shruthi. There was actually one bad. It wouldn't goto filter screen on shruthi. I swapped the good one from my shruthi in hopes that the LXR might show some signs of life. Still same results. No buttons working at all.
crystal is fine i think. if there was a problem there, the whole thing shouldn't boot up at all.
if there are some 165 missing at the end of the serial chain the serial input (pin 14) of the last 165 should get pulled to ground to one of the 10k pulldown resistors and therefore the unconnected buttons should apear like not pressed to the processor.
so with only u2, u5 , 4050 and all the 595 everything should work, but only the first 16 buttons of course.
if it's 10k resistor networks you are using for the switchs like you wrote and the pulldown resistors on the 165 serial inputs (r8,r9,r26,r64,r60) are also 10k i am kind of running out of ideas.
don't let that discourage you though - i am far from an expert with this stuff.
maybe some of the troubeshooting experts chime in please??
just watched you video after my last post. gave me another idea:
please check r8,r9,r26,r64,r60 pulldown resistors. (especially r9 if you have only u2 and u5 inserted)
if there is something wrong with them (not soldered right or missing), randome button presses could be generated because the serial input of the last 165 in the chain would have undefined value.
that could explain the madness going on in the video.
Ok ill try to re-solder all 10k resistors but I just checked them all from the bottom on ohmmeter and they read 10. Also I pulled all the 595s and checked them one by one in my shruthi like I did the 165s. All of them good to go.
I also did an ohm test on all the 10k networks with my voltmeter to be certain they are all 10k and I didnt get wrong ones somehow. They all read 9.98 ohms when touching 1st pin with dot and the second pin.
all resoldered also desoldered the AVR socket and resoldered. Buttons still all dead. Almost 99% sure there is something wrong with this PCB. Ive spent about twice the amount of time on this ridiculously easy project now compared to the Ambika I built.
i built an ambika, too. .. destroyed an expensive optrex display in the process. ...and a few pads when desoldering it
hehe that sucks. Mine fired up first time no issues. I was shocked actually haha. Shruthi had a bad IC when I first fired it up. Swapped it and it was fine. So that is why this one is so perplexing to me.
Hello Julian and owensands, Please reply: What was the fault at the end? Do you remember?
I had once an unidentifiable error on an arpie built, at the end it turned out to be that a sharp "thing" had cut a trace 100%, so after getting this fixed everything was fine. The cut was only noticeable wit 20x magnification, at the bare eye it looked like a tiny scratch.
Comments
I would recommend to just solder all the normal LED resistors (which are unequipped up to now) additionally to the wrong resistor networks. Then you have parallel circuits of the resistors.
220KOhm II 220 Ohm = 219,78 Ohm
the button problem remains?
so the problem happens when you put in a ic in u6 or u10 no matter which ones of your ics?
would it be possible to get you friend to probe the digital lines of that serrial bus again? maybe put in one ic at a time to narrow the problem down.
sd card shouldn't matter to the buttons.
crystal is fine i think. if there was a problem there, the whole thing shouldn't boot up at all.
if there are some 165 missing at the end of the serial chain the serial input (pin 14) of the last 165 should get pulled to ground to one of the 10k pulldown resistors and therefore the unconnected buttons should apear like not pressed to the processor.
so with only u2, u5 , 4050 and all the 595 everything should work, but only the first 16 buttons of course.
if it's 10k resistor networks you are using for the switchs like you wrote and the pulldown resistors on the 165 serial inputs (r8,r9,r26,r64,r60) are also 10k i am kind of running out of ideas.
don't let that discourage you though - i am far from an expert with this stuff.
maybe some of the troubeshooting experts chime in please??
gave me another idea:
please check r8,r9,r26,r64,r60 pulldown resistors. (especially r9 if you have only u2 and u5 inserted)
if there is something wrong with them (not soldered right or missing), randome button presses could be generated because the serial input of the last 165 in the chain would have undefined value.
that could explain the madness going on in the video.
.. destroyed an expensive optrex display in the process. ...and a few pads when desoldering it
Please reply: What was the fault at the end? Do you remember?
I had once an unidentifiable error on an arpie built, at the end it turned out to be that a sharp "thing" had cut a trace 100%, so after getting this fixed everything was fine.
The cut was only noticeable wit 20x magnification, at the bare eye it looked like a tiny scratch.